Oysters and Wine, Anyone?

I recently returned from a trip to Foodie Mecca Northwest (aka: San Francisco). Whenever I'm there I always try to get my fill of the excellent and abundant seafood that is available at the local eateries, especially the oysters. While dining with friends, I was asked what wine goes with these tasty bivalves. That seems like a simple question, but it is not something this Foodie can easily answer. So I decided to blog about it instead!

I'm sure many people would answer with Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris (or some other light, white wine). Those are a safe choice and they probably do taste good with oysters because there is not much in those wines to take away from the inherent nuances of the oysters themselves. But I can't say that there is one wine varietal that goes with everything oyster because they vary so much in taste and type.

Just as there are wine snobs, there are oyster snobs, too. I can be called the former at times and the latter will possibly deride this blog post as being too general. I am by no means an expert on oysters, but my palate knows what tastes good to me and what doesn't. Some oysters I like raw, others I want cooked in something. Oysters come in many varieties and from various coastal regions. I feel the region plays a larger factor in how an oyster tastes more so than the actual type it is. I have noticed roughly three general regions from where oysters are sourced: Pacific Northwest, Gulf, and Northeastern. I will give my thoughts on each along with some wine suggestions.

Pacific Northwest Oysters

I love pretty much every oyster I've ever had that has come from the Pacific Northwest when served on the halfshell. Some varieties can get quite large. I'm good with medium large (Hama Hama) on down to smaller (Kumamoto). They all have a very creamy texture that is almost fruity in nature and are also very fleshy. All I know is that they taste divine by themselves when raw. My first choice would be to drink sparkling wine with these oysters. I do love champagne (Veuve Clicquot goes with everything), but if the bubbly budget is tighter a quality sparkling wine from California works just fine, too (Domaine Carneros or Roederer Estate are two of my favorites and either can be had for $30 or less).

Gulf Oysters

Gulf oysters taste much brinier (even marshy) to me when served raw, so I tend to not order them on the halfshell. However, they take on a completely different nature when cooked and that briny taste now adds amazing character to the larger dish. Two of my favorite entrees with these are fried oyster po' boys and oyster gumbo. Truth be told, a po' boy begs for a pint (or two) of your favorite beer to wash it down (I'd opt for a pilsner). But oyster gumbo deserves a bold wine that can withstand (and even compliment) the Mardi Gras of flavor in your mouth. I'd go for an old vine Zinfandel with big fruit and nice structure (Klinker Brick "Old Ghost" and Cloud 9 "Seity" are two very good zins in the $30 range). I know some people will want sweeter and lighter (body and color) wine in this pairing, but I find that lighter wines can sometimes get completely lost when matched up with dish as bold as gumbo.

Northeastern Oysters

I spent a good chunk of my life in the Northeast and I like the oysters from this region both raw and cooked. When served on the halfshell, I find that they are leaner than their plump Pacific Northwest cousins, and they taste more minerally (but not in a bad way). I like Bluepoints and Wellfleets served this way. Northeastern oysters also cook up nicely, but I find they often need another seafood along with them in the dish, as they don't quite have enough character to carry a hot entree on their own. When served chilled on the halfshell, I envision myself with a glass of lovely French white like Pouilly-Fuissé ($30 and under) or Mersault ($30 and up).

You should take this pairing advice for what it's worth knowing it's based purely upon my heavily jaded palate and the fact I love both oysters and vino. The problem now is that I want to try all of the above pairings and see which combination I like the best. It's really tough being a Foodie sometimes ;) Bon Appétit!

The EV Foodie