Cowboy Ciao - Eclectic Done Right

I spent last Saturday in Scottsdale and ate dinner at Cowboy Ciao. It's in Old Town at 7133 E. Stetson Drive, pretty much right across the street from the steps leading to South Bridge. I have eaten at Cowboy Ciao a couple times in the past and I was looking forward to returning.

Dinner

Cowboy Ciao kind of rocks the "Rustic Minimalist" approach combined with a touch of artiness. I don't mean that in a bad way, because it works well and is a nice change from so many Scottsdale eateries that ooze pretense. Some of the walls have murals on them that add a splash of color to the decor. The bar is in the center of the restaurant and the bar top is large, angular, and beefy. The restaurant seating and the tables are "plain Jane" for the most part. The one exception is a booth that is raised up on a small, decorated platform. Overall, the place has a warm feel to it. Noise levels in the restaurant can be elevated at times, but I never found it hard to carry on a conversation.

If you are a wine fan, you will find Ciao's wine list both a blessing and a curse. The blessing is that they source their wines from Kazmierz (same owners), so there is something for every price range and palate. The curse is that the wine list is H-U-G-E and it's not in a user-friendly format. Instead of being by varietal, then by winemaker or price, their list set up by wine color, then price. When there are 20 wines, it's no issue. When there are 2,000 wines, well now you have to start digging. I wanted to order a half bottle of chardonnay, so that meant turning to the Whites section (mind you, it's the size of a phone book) and then looking page after page for what I wanted. Yes, I probably could have asked, but I'm a self-proclaimed wine snob and asking would ruin the treat of picking out something yummy myself. I finally bailed on the half bottle idea and looked to the wines by the glass list, which by comparison to the bottle list was very small and there were no Chardonnays I liked, so I ended up getting a glass of Kunin Grenache. It was reasonably priced ($11) for the quality of the wine and was very good. Earthy, fruity, and well rounded for a Grenache.

OK, onto the food. Cowboy Ciao's menu is best summed up as being eclectic. Now in my foodie experience, there is eclectic food that is just weird and then there is eclectic food that makes you say, "I'd never think of combining all that, but damn that's good". Ciao is definitely in the latter group. They have a nice selection of both small and large plate offerings. We ordered a variety of small plates to share. Here is a rundown of the items in the order we ate them:

• Stetson Chopped - This is one dish that simply must be ordered anytime you dine here. It is like no salad you will ever have because it's a salad in the loosest sense of the term. Arugula, tomatoes, couscous, dried corn, bacon, smoked salmon, and a couple other items that you wouldn't expect. All tossed together in front of you with an amazing basil pesto buttermilk ranch dressing. Order it and you will not be disappointed.
• Mini Mushroom Pan Fry - This is just a smaller version of what the menu proclaims as "their signature dish". About eight different kinds of mushrooms sauteed and served with an ancho pepper cream sauce over polenta. It's unique and good, but very filling. I'm not sure I'd want the entree-sized version all to myself.
• Dungeness Crab Stack - Large hunks of crab mixed with shaved fennel bulb and a little diced avocado. It has a light lemony vinaigrette that is infused with tarragon. It all worked together, but it was almost like there were too many subtle flavors in the dish and it added up to it being a little bland. Plus, I got tired of the fennel after a while as I felt there was too much there.
• Elvis in New Orleans - At least I think this is what the dessert was called. All I know is that it was so good. A fresh, warm peanut butter cookie, topped with bourbon ice cream, salted caramel sauce and other things to make your dentist cringe. Completely unredeeming - the way a dessert should be.

The food is priced moderately for what you get. Most small plates are in the $11 - $15 range and are shareable. Entrees range from $20 - $40. The service was very good. Our server was attentive without being a pest and the front reception acknowledged and seated us very quickly.


Final Take

Cowboy Ciao delivers a solid meal and offers a unique variety of food. Pair that with an impressive (yet cumbersome) wine list and you have a great spot for dining. I will be back again as Ciao has much to offer.

Overall Grade = B+ (Very Good)

The EV Foodie